By Jeffrey A. Rendall, Photos by Chuck Rendall
KA’ANAPALI BEACH, MAUI – Driving through Lahaina on the western coast of Maui, I looked back and wondered when the next time we’d see the historic town again – and if it would look the same when we did make it back to that part of the world.
This was in July, 2023, about a month before the wildfire that almost completely destroyed the town was ignited by what appeared to be downed powerlines during a fierce windstorm with winds blowing at hurricane strength. The town’s undermanned fire department was little match for the ferocity of the fire once it started, with many, many residents caught by surprise at the speed of the fire.
In case you don’t recall, over a hundred people died in that blaze. They probably felt safe that something so unspeakable couldn’t just rise up in such a short timeframe. Much if not most of their town was leveled in the disaster. What had been regarded as a major destination to visitors of Maui was literally there one day and gone the next.
Prior to that time, we’d been visiting Lahaina for decades and were familiar with its restaurants and shops along Front Street, which borders the Pacific Ocean. There were lots of local businesses located there as well, and, to us, it was more than just a quaint little tourist trap with no parking and overpriced eateries. Lahaina was almost like a home away from home for us.
On our July, 2023 visit, I noted to my dad that the region looked awful dry and wondered if they had a problem with wildfires. I’d heard of flareups from time to time, but didn’t think of them the same way one would worry about the danger in southern California, where frequent emergencies have been a way of life for a long, long time.
Lahaina’s aging wooden structures couldn’t be saved. A lot of memories went up in smoke when the town burned. Most people say the town will be rebuilt, which it no doubt will. Will it retain its original character? We’ll have to wait and see.
We’re scheduled to go back to Maui in early 2026. We’ll try hard to maintain the residents’ privacy and allow them peace to mourn – and recover. It won’t be easy. But western Maui desperately needs the visitors to come back, too. It’s a delicate balance.
We hope to get in some more golf at our favorite golf destination right off of Kaanapali beach. On previous visits, we’ve played at Kaanapali golf courses many times.
Here’s a look at what you’ll find there. Support a local business!
–LA HAINA, MAUI, Hawaii — Hearing the story of Ka’anapali Golf Courses made me think back to an old saying my grandfather used to use: “Even a Rolls Royce needs a tune-up.”
It’s true, the very best of the best eventually can use some fine-tuning, and that’s definitely the case for golf courses – even those situated in a heavenly spot like Ka’anapali Beach (on the island of Maui, Hawaii). Courses not only must deal with the ravages of weather (like with Hurricane Lane seven years ago that dumped huge amounts of rain on parts of the Islands) and time, they also must contend with an even deadlier ‘enemy’ – the onset of technology.
The good news was, when the tune-up was finished, the engine ran as beautifully as the day it rolled off the assembly line – and in the case of Ka’anapali’s two golf courses (Royal Ka’anapali and Ka’anapali Kai), they’re arguably ‘better’ than new and have been for season after season.
Ka’anapali’s Director of Golf, Sherrie Golden, takes the story from here. “For more than 50 years, Ka’anapali Golf Courses has hosted various Tour and competitive events including Shell’s Wonderful World of Golf, LPGA Women’s Kemper Open and the PGA Senior Tour’s Ka’anapali Classic. Being the original planned destination resort in the state of Hawaii, the renovations in 2006-2007 were much needed. The idea of hosting high profile events such as Big Break Ka’anapali and the Wendy’s Champions Skins Game in the future was a given. Our renovation plans allowed for such improvements to be showcased to the world.”
Indeed. If you’re a golf fan, you can’t set foot on the Ka’anapali property without thinking of the big-time TV events that have taken place there in the past decades – and all that’s missing are the spectators and TV trucks in the parking lot.
There’s interesting history here, too. “During the time of the monarchy, Ka’anapali Beach Resort was the vacation spot of Hawaiian royalty and if you were not of royal blood, you literally had to take a boat ride around what is now the resort area. The golf course land was home to taro fields, Hawaiian lawn bowling, and the scene of many fierce battles. Where else in the world can you experience playing golf in such an area not only steeped in Hawaiian culture, but also where golf legends like Billy Casper, Jan Stephenson and Arnold Palmer have played?” Golden wondered.
The course is still hosting events, as it recently held the Kā‘anapali Pro-Pro Championship Presented by Golf Concepts on its fairways and greens.
There won’t be any bloody battles to witness these days, but the courses receive a fairly steady amount of play, so it’s not like there aren’t people around – it’s just not necessarily the famous ones. Golden says not a day goes by when some guest talks about the headlining events that have taken place there – and they’ve proven to be a big draw for the resort’s ‘rediscovery.’
“Hosting an event where the likes of Jack Nicklaus, Gary Player, Fred Couples, Nick Price, Ben Crenshaw and Tom Watson play, gives an instant ‘Stamp of Approval’ from golf’s greats. In addition, we’ve been ranked as high as the No. 11 ‘Top Tour Courses You Can Play’ by Golfweek,” Golden said proudly.
For those staying along Ka’anapali Beach, you also can’t beat the convenience of the golf courses – they’re literally right across the street from the hotels and timeshare resorts, within easy walking distance.
Getting back to the ‘tune-up’ part, it’s hard to remember that in the early 2000’s the Ka’anapali golf courses were desperately in need of an upgrade to bring them up to the standards of contemporary professional events – and also allow them to compete with their famous Kapalua neighbors to the north and Wailea at the center of Maui.
Again, Golden elaborates. “Being classic designs of the 1960s-early 1970s, both courses needed a ‘modernization’ so to speak. With new technology in golf equipment and golf balls, the layouts needed some modifications, but still keeping with the classic design of Robert Trent Jones and Arthur Jack Snyder.”
She continues, “Bunkering was altered, added or moved to create more visually appealing layouts and bring their relevance in line with current technology. Additionally, new hybrid Bermuda green surfaces allow for a better putting surface and consistently great greens – something we want to be known as having the best in state. A new irrigation system was put into place to allow us to present a more consistent product year-round.”
Not having played the courses prior to their renovation, I can’t speak to the conditioning improvements – but the layouts themselves are certainly on par with those you’d expect at a high-profile resort. Both Royal and Kai are very generous in the spatial sense, which will certainly spare you from frustration in terms of the need to look for wayward golf shots. Who needs that on vacation?
And they’re lush green as you’d expect in the tropical paradise of Hawaii, too. Having played them again in 2023 they were in outstanding shape.
Other improvements included adding a new forward set of tees to both courses. “Ka’anapali is a family destination and we cater to a vast array of handicaps,” Golden explained. “By adding the new forward tee, it provided a better golfing experience for those in that category and we’ve seen a significant increase in families, junior golfers and couples coming out to play. A keiki (children’s) set of tees ranging from 100-150 yards from the green was also added to the Kai Course. Keiki also have their own scorecard, complete with colorful crayon and their own par which creates a fun experience for the kids.”
In other words, not only are kids welcomed at Ka’anapali, they’re encouraged. There’s hardly a better place to bring youngsters out for the first time, either – playing golf in Hawaii would have a way of getting kids interested in the game when you get back home, too.
My high school-aged son enjoyed both courses and was able to do what he does best — advancing the ball without being overwhelmed by oversized bunkers or water hazards. If you have younger golfers, it’s hard to beat Ka’anapali.
A further nice thing about Ka’anapali is the fact that the courses aren’t just carbon copies of each other – both have their own distinct flavor and challenges. Golden highlights the differences: “The Royal Course is a classic Robert Trent Jones design (opened in 1962) — very straight forward layout, with generous play off the tee. But Jones’ large, undulating greens will cause even a great putter to be challenged. With the new putting surfaces, these greens are quick and true, allowing for players to test their ability.”
“The Royal Course is also demanding, with many holes playing into the island trade winds and measures more than 6,700 yards. Although long and demanding, the fourth set of tee boxes allows for all levels of play – you get to pick your poison,” she added.
In contrast, Golden says the Kai course (originally built in 1971 as an executive course, the layout was redesigned by Arthur Jack Snyder in 1976 to a full 18-hole resort-style course) is more of a ‘thinker’s’ golf course. “With its deep, large bunkers that surround the greens, it is important for the golfer to be on the correct side of the fairway off the tee so they have a better approach shot to the green. Playing along the West Maui Mountains, the Kai Course has amazing views of the Pacific Ocean and neighboring islands of Lanai and Molokai. Prior to renovations, this course was the underdog of the two courses; now, it’s the locals and families’ favorite, a course you can play over and over again.”
The Kai seems to be a bit gentler on the scorecard as well, so it could be the better choice if you haven’t teed it up in a while. Again, neither course will frustrate you with lost balls – but if your short-game needs a ‘tune-up’ of its own, then the Royal will be more punishing.
I will note the Kai greens were particularly vexing to us on our recent trip. If you’re not used to Bermuda greens you’d better get a refresher on how to read grain, etc… Otherwise be ready for some very long comeback putts if you misread your first putt.
Highlight holes include the Royal Course’s fifth hole, a long par-4 that concludes alongside the sandy Ka’anapali Beach shoreline. According to Golden, this was one of the holes where the fairway bunkering was modified to a more pronounced dogleg left, adding a little more challenge off the tee. Most people will be lucky to bogey this demanding 474 yard par-4. It may not be the length, but the distracting view of the beach that breaks your concentration.
The other memorable hole on the Royal Course is the par four finishing hole. A 440 yard double dog leg hole, with a lagoon snaking along the entire fairway — and the green has seen its share of tournaments won or lost (and this one is always fun to watch and see how the pros play it).
On the Kai course, the par three 11th hole was one of the holes that had its layout completely re-designed during the renovation. This created a more visually appealing hole, where players are treated to panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean and neighboring islands of Molokai and Lanai. The 182-yard hole has two large bunkers protecting the green and with cross trade winds, players must be careful with club selection. The key to this hole is to land the ball just short of the putting surface and let it release onto the green, which runs away from you.
Though golf is certainly the attraction at Ka’anapali Golf Courses, the attitude of the staff should be given credence as well. While everything is laid back in Hawaii, the resort’s people will ensure that the details are taken care of for you – and that’s nice.
“The authentic Aloha Spirit of the staff is truly what makes the experience at Ka’anapali different than any other course on Maui,” Golden said. “Many of the employees have been at the facility for more than 25 years and welcome back returning guests with open arms of Aloha and warm smiles, happy to see them and their families again and again. What’s unique about the resort is that the two courses offer different experiences so guests are allowed to have two very different rounds of golf, all within one resort.”
One of the ways the Ka’anapali folks go out of their way to please is through flexible scheduling.
“We offer various ways guests can ‘consume’ golf at Ka’anapali. With our Junior program, we give great access to families to be able to spend valuable time together while on vacation. We also offer a program called ‘Golf My Way’ – this program allows for a golfer to play 18 holes stretched over seven days. With time being the most valuable thing on vacation, sometimes it’s hard for someone to leave the family for four hours to play a round of golf. This program allows for a guest to play when it’s convenient for him/her,” Golden added.
A final terrific benefit: you can walk the courses anytime (if you want). The resort just introduced its “FIT CLUB,” a monthly afternoon walking program on the Royal Course after 4 p.m.. Golden says they have more than 20 players a day take advantage of the program and they are so excited to be able to play a few holes after work (for residents) or after a day at the beach or activities with the family.
To conclude, Ka’anapali is a great place to visit in order to walk in the footsteps of legends or the TV stars featured in the Big Break show some years back – but it’s also just a great place to play golf when you’re on vacation.
The ‘tune-up’ the resort’s courses received in the early years of this century not only put Ka’anapali back on the map – it’s a must-play for your next trip to Maui.